The European city that feels like an outdoor art gallery with ‘rollercoaster’ trams and riverfront rooftop bars

THE mark of a good trip for me is the answer to the question: Would you go back?

And after spending a mere 24 hours in Lisbon two years ago, I’ve been desperate to return.

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On our first trip we barely scratched the surface of the city but we ticked off some of the star attractions, like St Jorge’s Castle and the neo-gothic Santa Justa elevator, which whisks you vertically from the lower streets to those above.

This time, bearing a Lisboa card, which gives access to 51 museums and galleries, my husband and I were keen to see more.

Our fab hotel, the Hyatt Regency Lisbon, was based in the Belem area so we started exploring there after visiting Pasteis de Belem for one of the city’s famous pastéis de nata.

Forget the cold, stodgy British custard tart, this is something else. A light, creamy filling in a sticky filo pastry case, best warm, straight from the oven.

This patisserie is the home of the original tart, based on a secret recipe from nearby Jerónimos monastery, and has been churning out millions of them since 1837.

It’s a short walk from there to the 16th century Belem Tower. The Unesco heritage site is stunning architecturally and historically but wait times can hit the two-hour mark. The incredible structure seems to float on water when the tide is up.

Green wine

Also in the neighbourhood is the Monument to the Discoveries, which towers over the Tagus River in honour of famous explorers like Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan.

See that too before taking the 15-minute tram ride back to the city centre.

We alighted at the bustling Praca do Comercio square and found ourselves outside the oddly named Interpretative Centre of the History of Cod. As it was included on the Lisboa card, we decided to take a look. It’s actually an informative and amusing museum dedicated to the city’s intrepid trawlermen.

And that gave us an idea for lunch.

Many top chefs have stalls in the Time Out Market in Cais do Sodré, so you can try their top-notch food at a fraction of restaurant prices.

I had a huge, steaming bowl of feijoada de gambas (prawn bean stew) from acclaimed chef Susana Felicidade for just £13.50 and my husband had a cod sandwich, which he declared the best ever.

We toasted those brave fishermen with a glass of Portuguese vinho verde. It translates as green wine but refers to the young age of the grapes, not the colour of the drink. It’s slightly effervescent and lower in both alcohol and price.

Refreshed and refuelled, we spent an hour or so wandering the streets and ended up at the Tile Museum. The blue and white tiles that decorate many of the city’s buildings are so beautiful, this is more art gallery than museum. Don’t miss the panorama made of hundreds of tiles on the top floor.

Our next excursion was a trip on Tram 28. Lisbon is famously hilly but has a network of trams, buses and funiculars to whizz you up and down the inclines. Tram 28 follows a 7km route up, down and round the city streets, like an urban rollercoaster.

It still uses the original 1930s yellow carriages and gets very busy, so join at either end of the line and stand at the back for the full teeth-rattling experience.

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There are three funiculars too. We took the supremely instagrammable Bica funicular, which hauled us to the top of the street in the time you can say “shall we take a selfie?”

Having done our exploring for the day, we got back to the hotel in time for Gin O’Clock, a tasting session that pairs infused drinks with gourmet snacks.

Who knew beef tartare and caviar went with juniper and grapefruit gin?

Later we ate at the hotel’s Viseversa restaurant, dining on more local fish, this time delicious turbot and sea bream. Then there was one last treat, a nightcap at the Icon rooftop bar.

Judging by the amount of instagramming going on, it’s the place to go for a drink.

We sipped espresso martinis as a DJ played and night fell over the river.

Best of all, we only had to jump in the lift to get back to our incredibly luxurious room.

The next morning, with only a few hours before our flight, we had a leisurely breakfast and some time in the Serenity Spa.

My husband relaxed in the pool, Jacuzzi and steam room while I was treated to a Feel The Algarve massage — 80 minutes of blissful indulgence. We left feeling like VIPs.

So I guess the question is: Would we go back a third time?

The answer: Yes, without doubt. I’d gladly take another helping of pastel de nata, and of the city itself.