RATHER selfishly, I was in two minds about reviewing my favourite cafe in York – in case it lead to a swarm of new diners and I would never ever get a table there again!
I had been an occasional visitor to this place in recent years and was always won over, but for some reason it never quite stayed on my radar when I tried to think of a good lunch spot in York.
But that all changed when my go-to cafe closed for good last year and I was in need of a replacement.
And Sketch – the cafe in York Art Gallery – emerged as the front runner.
Several visits in recent months cemented my view that this is about the best place for lunch in York – and at great value.
Seriously, when I look at the quality of what they offer for the prices they charge, I have to ask: “how do they do it?”
But there are drawbacks. Firstly, it has limited opening hours, only from Wednesday to Sunday from 10.30am to 3.30pm.
And secondly, the menu is small (just one page) – always a plus in my book because I prefer spending time chatting to my dining partner than reading a menu the size of War And Peace, but some readers may prefer more choice.
Thirdly, the cafe is small-to-medium in size – I have always managed to get a table (and hopefully that continues, fingers crossed), but sometimes we have bagged the last available!
So why is it so great? Well, besides the setting – in one of the city’s loveliest buildings – the menu always has interesting and different dishes to try, and the ingredients and cooking are top-notch. I’ve mentioned the price, but to give an example most items on the lunch menu cost between £10 and £12. You can see why people fall in love with this place!
Despite its size, if feels light and airy on account of the high ceiling, large windows and white decor. Tables are nicely spaced out so you don’t feel cramped. In the summer, you can sit out on the square with views over Bootham Bar to the Minster.
Service is always great too.
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So I was feeling very confident when I met my friend there for lunch last Friday with a view to writing a Press review.
It was around 12.30pm and the cafe was almost full.
We ordered drinks – a soft drink and a raspberry kombucha (both £3.80) – and read through the single-page menu.
My friend chose the ‘Cauliflower’ option at £11 – which I’d had before and could recommend 100 per cent (and if I hadn’t been reviewing and was required to order a different dish from my partner, I’d have gone for this one again!).
Unsurprisingly, this was a winner in her eyes too. Served in a large, wide bowl, a perfectly roasted cauliflower steak was nestled in a gently spiced korma sauce and topped with toasted Macadamia nuts and fresh spring onions. It came with a side of flat bread, pickled red onions and slices of lemon.
Her verdict: “It was delicious, filling and tremendous value for money. I could eat it again.”
For my choice, I considered menu choices of a cured mackerel fillet with whipped cod’s roe dip and homemade focaccia (£11), the cheesy potato rosti with creme fraiche and chive oil (£11), and the beef chilli and fried eggs on Haxby Bakehouse bread from the sandwich collection at £12.
Also for £12 was a chorizo and Manchego cheese toasty and for a tenner you could choose an artichoke and bean spread with toasted bread from Haxby Bakehouse.
In the end, I plumped for butter roasted cod with saffron poached leeks and leek top pesto (£12) and I chose a portion of focaccia for an extra £4.
This was a smaller portion than the cauliflower dish and on arrival looked appetising: a piece of pure white fish on top of a green puree not dissimilar to the texture of mushy peas.
The cod flaked immediately at the first touch of my fork and was moist and fresh and perfectly cooked.
Unfortunately the other two parts of the dish were disappointing. The two fingers of saffron-infused leeks were a bit tough, while the pesto made with the leek tops was too bitter and I was unable to eat it.
Our lovely waitress was quick to inquire about our food, and immediately offered me another choice when I mentioned how the pesto was not to my liking.
In the end, because of time pressure (I was on my lunch break) I decided to pass on the offer and we settled to finish up with coffee and a cake from the home-made selection, tempting us on a counter at the front of the cafe.
We enjoyed a flat white coffee (£3.30) and an Americano (£3.20) and a slice of chocolate and hazelnut cake as well as a lemon and poppyseed sponge (£4 each).
The chocolate choice was very dense and tasted almost fudge-like. It was very good, but rather rich and would have been ideal to share as my friend could not finish it.
I did not have that problem with the lemon cake, which was enhanced by a thick and tangy lemon curd.
When I paid the bill, I noticed I had not been charged for the fish nor the focaccia bread. You can’t fault customer service like that.
So will I be back? Yes I will – but I’ll be giving the leek top pesto a wide berth next time!
And do be aware that the cafe might be busy/busier, because York Art Gallery’s newest exhibition has just opened.
Making Waves exhibition – running until August 30 – tells the story the art of Japanese woodblock print and features more than 100 works of art including Katsushika Hokusai’s iconic The Great Wave off Kanagawa.
Entry to the exhibition is included in the general admission price.
Please note there is no charge to visit the Sketch cafe.
I also noted that an ‘Inspired by Making Waves’ menu featuring dishes showcasing Japanese ingredients and flavours is being promoted on the art gallery website – all the more reason to ‘sketch’ in a diary date at this tucked-away cafe in the heart of historic York sometime soon!
Reviews are independent and all meals are paid for by The Press
Fact file
Sketch cafe, York Art Gallery, Exhibition Square, York
W: sketchyork.wordpress.com
Verdict
Food: Normally very good!
Service: Friendly and professional
Value: Excellent
Ambience: Airy and arty, great for lunch or coffee
Trip Advisor
Sketch cafe is a hit on Trip Advisor too – with a 4.3 rating and with 70 per cent of reviewers rating it as ‘excellent’
Share your favourite foodie place in York
Where do you love to eat and drink in York? What is your favourite cafe? Where should we review next? Share your views and suggestions in the comments below this article, thanks!
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